Preprint / Version 1

Tracing Fiber Sustainability

A comparative look on organic cotton and MMCFs

##article.authors##

  • Vera Chang Taipei American School

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.58445/rars.1611

Keywords:

Sustainable fibers, greenwashing, fashion

Abstract

This paper presents the complexity of overly simplistic notions of sustainability in fashion, exploring the relationship between fiber production and the environment within the context of consumer misconceptions and unawareness of technological innovation of the industry. It is crucial to address the pervasive cases of greenwashing in fashion, due to misleading environmental language and information of certain fibers, as these hinder genuine efforts towards sustainability. This review aims to understand the different fibers used in the fashion industry through lifecycle assessments, looking closely at the various methods of production and effects of each material. Furthermore, it aims to facilitate more informed decisions and practices on behalf of manufacturers and consumers towards true sustainability. This study closely examines two types of fibers, organic cotton and man-made cellulose fibers (MMCFs), focusing on the case studies of H&M and Patagonia, to understand the challenges and achievements of such materials. Through studies of different fibers, and the brands that embrace them, the paper highlights the diverse ways sustainability is promoted and the overarching issue of misconceptions in fashion. With the numerous complexities surrounding this subject, this paper demonstrates the necessity of understanding the truth behind fashion’s processes and looking through the misconceptions many brands place upon consumers.

References

Becker-Olsen, K. and S. Potucek. “Greenwashing." In Encyclopedia of corporate social responsibility, edited by Samuel O. Idowu, 1318-1323. Berlin: Springer, 2013.

Cotton Incorporated. “Comparing Conventional and Organic Cotton Production.” Accessed June 26, 2024. https://cottontoday.cottoninc.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Cotton-Incorporated-Fact-Sheet-ConventionalOrganic_Final-Approved_06.25.20.pdf.

Drahl, C., J. Kemsley, C. Bettenhausen, B. Halford, P. Patel, A. Scott, and G. Vitale. “The future of sustainable textiles.” Discovery Report (American Chemical Society, Q2, 2022). https://www.acs.org/content/dam/acsorg/membership/acs/benefits/discovery-reports/sustainabletextiles.pdf.

Frazier, R. M., K. Vivas, I. Azuaje, R. Vera, A. Pifano, N. Forfora, H. Jameel, E. Ford, J. Pawlak, R. Venditti, and R. Gonzalez. “Beyond cotton and polyester: An evaluation of emerging feedstocks and conversion methods for the future of fashion industry.” Journal of Bioresources and Bioproducts, 9(2) (May 2024): 130-159. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jobab.2024.01.001.

Farley Gordon, J. and C. Hill. Sustainable Fashion: Past, Present and Future. New York: Boomsbury Publishing Plc, 2014. http://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/ucsd/detail.action?docID=1779016.

Gonzalez, V., X. Lou, and T. Chi. “Evaluating Environmental Impact of Natural and Synthetic Fibers: A Life Cycle Assessment Approach.” Sustainability, 15(9):7670 (2023).

Gopalakrishnan, D.. “Organic Cotton – an overview.” Fibre2Fashion, February, 2007. https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/1584/organic-cotton-an-overview.

H&M. “Conscious – Sustainable Style.” Sustainability. Accessed June 26, 2024. https://www2.hm.com/en_hk/men/shop-by-concept/conscious.html.

Lai, O.. “7 Fast Fashion Companies Responsible for Environmental Pollution.” Earth.Org, October 15, 2022. https://earth.org/fast-fashion-companies/.

Linckens, S., C. Horn, and J. K. Perret. “Greenwashing in the Fashion Industry – The Flipside of the Sustainability Trend from the Perspective of Generation Z.” ISM, no. 23 (2024).

Meier, M., F. Stoessel, N. Jungbluth, R. Juraske, C. Schader, M. Stolze. “Environmental impacts of organic and conventional agricultural products--are the differences captured by life cycle assessment?” Journal of environmental management, vol. 149 (2015): 193-208. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jenvman.2014.10.006.

Nguyen, Q.. “How Sustainable Are Lyocell Fabrics? A Life-Cycle Analysis.” Impactful Ninja. Accessed July 4, 2024. https://impactful.ninja/how-sustainable-are-lyocell-fabrics/.

Patagonia. “Materials.” Accessed July 4, 2024. https://www.patagonia.com/materials/.

Patagonia. “Man-Made Cellulosic Fibers.”Accessed July 4, 2024. https://www.patagonia.com/our-footprint/man-made-cellulosic-fibers.html#:~:text=At%20Patagonia%2C%20we%20source%20MMCFs,sacrificing%20product%20quality%20or%20performance.

Raja Balasaraswathi, S. and R. Rathinamoorthy. “Synthetic Textile and Microplastic Pollution: An Analysis on Environmental and Health Impact.” In Circular Economy and Microplastic Pollution, edited by Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu, 1-20. Singapore: Springer, 2022.

Schillmann, C.. “Patagonia Inc. under a sustainability perspective.” Nottingham University Business School China (2020).

Shabbir, M. and F. Mohammad. “Sustainable production of regenerated cellulosic fibres.” In Sustainable Fibres and Textiles, edited by Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu, 171-189. UK: Woodhead Publishing, 2017.

Shafie, S., A. Kamis, M. Ramli, S. Bedor, and F. Puad. “Fashion Sustainability: Benefits of Using Sustainable Practices in Producing Sustainable Fashion Designs.” International Business Education Journal, 14(1): 103-111. https://doi.org/10.37134/ibej.vol14.1.9.2021.

Sierra, B.. “6 Themes That Will Shape the Future of Sustainability in Fashion in 2024.” The Sustainable Fashion Forum. Last modified January 4, 2024. https://www.thesustainablefashionforum.com/pages/6-themes-shaping-sustainable-fashion-in-2024.

Szekely, F. and Z. Dossa. “Patagonia’s sustainability strategy: Don’t buy our products.” IMD (December, 2015).

Textile Exchange. “Organic Cotton Market Report.” Last modified March 8, 2022. https://textileexchange.org/knowledge-center/materials/organic-cotton-market-report/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw2dG1BhB4EiwA998cqCXyv5dUDCslmvjchhz-v78htaJagZkO0kjC8ZlOGiqVmfrydGSNBhoCNn0QAvD_BwE.

Tonti, L.. “How green are your leggings? Recycled polyester is not a silver bullet (yet).” The Guardian, March 21, 2021. https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/mar/22/how-green-are-your-leggings-recycled-polyester-is-not-a-silver-bullet-yet.

Wakelyn , P.J. and M.R. Chaudhry. “Organic cotton: production practices and post-harvest considerations.” In Sustainable Textiles, ed. Richard Blackburn, 231-201. Woodhead Publishing, 2009.

Downloads

Posted

2024-09-12